|
Paul Marcus WinesOakland, CA 94618 e-mail: newsletter@paulmarcuswines.com |
A host of Chablis-loving customers wanted to come to our dinner at Pearl, originally scheduled for October 15. However, the date and the - ahem - somewhat short notice didn't quite work for most people. So we've rescheduled the dinner for Sunday November 12 at 7:00 PM.
For complete information, including the menu, wine, cost, and reservation details, see:
http://paulmarcuswines.com/events/2006-10-15-chablis.html
By Mark Middlebrook
"If it grows together, it goes together" is an often-reliable axiom of wine and food pairing: Muscadet with raw oysters, Barolo and white truffles, red Burgundy with beef bourguignonne, and the list goes on. What to do then with raclette or fondue, those cheesy (in the good sense) creations from the Alpine regions of western Switzerland and Eastern France? There is Swiss wine, but not much of it gets exported and what does is expensive. Fortunately the Alps and their foothills give rise to plenty of delicious, economical wines in France and Italy.
In the spirit of scientific inquiry and the pursuit of a swell evening, a hungry herd of Market Hall employees and customers recently participated in a Rockridge raclette-fest and Alpine wine tasting. We stocked up on Raclette cheese, gherkins, and Speck from the Pasta Shop, small potatoes and mushrooms from Market Hall Produce, and a bunch of bottles from Paul Marcus Wines. A subsequent tally of the empty bottles revealed these as the Alpine wine winners:
The département of Savoie in eastern France makes Raclette (the cheese), raclette (the dish from the cheese of the same name), and white wines that go well with both. Château de Ripaille's Vin de Savoie 2005 ($9.99) is an excellent example. This wine is made entirely from the grape variety called chasselas, which also is popular in the wines of Switzerland (where it's called fendant). Château de Ripaille's vineyards sit a stone's throw from Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and not too far from Geneva itself. The wine is medium-bodied, fresh, and moderately fruity, with a mineral twist.
Jean-François Quénard's vineyards in Savoie.
Domaine Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Quénard Chignin 2005 ($9.99) is another inexpensive find from Savoie. This wine comes from the southern part of the département, near Chambéry, and is 100% jacquèrre, the principle grape variety of Savoie. It resembles the Ripaille wine, with a slightly lighter touch and a bit more crisp acidity.
Northwest of Savoie lies the département of Jura, source of some of the most distinctive wines in France. Jura winemakers traditionally allow their white wines to oxidize, in the manner of a dry Sherry. André & Mireille Tissot Arbois 'Sélection' 2002 ($24) is a gentle introduction to traditional Jura wines. It's a blend of chardonnay and savagnin (a local grape variety - not to be confused with sauvignon) with the pungent, nutty aromas of an oxidative wine but plenty of fresh fruit flavors and vibrant acidity on the palate. It was a stylish and unique companion to the earthy components in the Raclette cheese.
Over on the Italian side of the Alps, the spectacular Dolomites tower above equally spectacular vineyards in the Alto Adige region. The region is called Südtirol in German; this area was part of Austria until after World War I. German remains the first language of many of the winemakers - and many of their wine labels. They may not make raclette there, but as in Switzerland, cheese, potatoes, cured meats, and all manner of other stick-to-your-ribs food are central to Südtirolese cuisine.
So it's not surprising that we found Abbazia di Novacella Valle Isarco Sylvaner 2005 ($17) a happy white wine match for our raclette-fest. This is classic mountain wine: racy, mineral, and clean, but with plenty of body for hearty fare. It's like drinking a glacier, as well as a piece of history. Wine has been made in this abbey ("abbazia") for eight centuries now.
While white wine is the traditional accompaniment to raclette, light-bodied, high-acid reds work, too. Georg Mumelter Griesbauerhof St. Magdalener 2005 ($13.99) certainly worked for us. St. Magdalener is a traditional blend of indigenous Alto Adige grape varieties: 90% schiava and 10% lagrein. The flavors are bright red cherries framed in plenty of mouth-watering acidity - perfect for cutting through the richness of cheese.
The Savoie wines confirmed the wisdom of "if it grows together, it goes together." But Jura and the Alto Adige suggest a less strict adage that can be just as delicious and fun: "With mountain food that's fine, try an Alpine wine."
The fifth issue of Edible East Bay is out - look for the basket chock full of fall pears on the cover. Former (and still occasional) PMW employee Cheryl Koehler is the editor and now publisher of this estimable quarterly magazine, which focuses on local, sustainable food producers, purveyors, and consumers.
This issue includes an article by Mark tracing the mad adventures of Don Bigote and his enigmatic sidekick Wry One in search of tapas in the East Bay: Tapeo by the Bay.
Check out the full table of contents here.
You can pick up a copy of the magazine for free next to the cash register at PMW. And if you want to ensure that each issue arrives in your mailbox - or that of a cherished giftee - check out the subscription details in the printed magazine or at http://edibleeastbay.com/ ($28 for four quarterly issues).
Ernest is perhaps the most systematic, organized taster at Paul Marcus Wines these days. To prove it, he's started a blog that catalogues notes from our staff tastings. Find out what we talk about in the swirl-sniff-and-spit sanctum sanctorum of Paul Marcus Wines (a.k.a.,the back office):
Food and Wine Notebooks
http://foodandwinenotebooks.blogspot.com/
This month we welcome Gilian Handelman as the newest PMW employee. Gilian comes to us after a distinguished tenure at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where her duties included organizing wine classes and the annual Top 100 Tasting. She'll be working on Sundays and Tuesdays, so stop by, say hello, and ask her for a recommendation.
We publish newsletters every few months and send them out via e-mail. In addition, we post all issues of the newsletter, plus maps and photographs, on paulmarcuswines.com. If you like what you've read so far, then sign up for e-mail delivery of future newsletters by sending an e-mail message to newsletter@paulmarcuswines.com. And don't worry - we will never, ever sell, rent, or give away your e-mail address.