There’s a reason why nebbiolo is one of the world’s most treasured grapes. Few others can deliver its total package—gorgeous fruit, supportive tannins, bright acidity, elegant spice, and earthy charm. When done correctly, nebbiolo offers balance, complexity, intensity, and finesse of which most grapes can only dream. It’s also an incredibly versatile variety, producing wines in a wide range of styles, each accentuating different characteristics.

At Paul Marcus Wines, we are no strangers to nebbiolo. From highly prized Barolo and Barbaresco to young and fresh table wines, our shelves boast a wide selection of nebbiolo in almost every incarnation. Occasionally, we get a version that stands apart from the others, and that certainly is the case with the 2019 Roagna Langhe Rosso.

In the capable hands of Luca Roagna, this estate puts out some of the world’s most prestigious Barolo and Barbaresco. But this more “modest” offering—50 bucks—is a stunner in its own right. The grapes come from younger vines in Barolo and Barbaresco, and the wine is crafted in pretty much the same way as its more esteemed siblings.

As soon as you pull the cork, a brilliant burst of perfumed raspberries pops out of the bottle. Though it leans toward a floral and graceful style—more roses than tar—it has a bedrock of refined, well-integrated tannins that underpins the lovely and delicate fruit and exotic spice notes rather than overwhelming them. It’s lively and expressive while maintaining its backbone and edge—a wonderful example of the outstanding, old-school 2019 vintage. Slow-braised beef, anyone?

Yes, you can probably lay it down for a few years and be amply rewarded, but in all honesty, it’s hard to imagine it being any more satisfying than it is today. We have a handful of bottles left, so there’s still time to find out for yourself.